April Winchell

Requiem for a Tea Room

I met a French policeman once about 6 years ago.

We were talking about his trip to America, and his impressions of our country, when he told me how disappointed he was.

"All my life", he said, "I wanted to come here and see the hat restaurant" (he was of course talking about The Brown Derby). "Now I am here, and it's gone. What happened to it? Was the hat taking up too much room?"

I've thought about that conversation many times since then, when venerable institutions like Chasen's disappear, and we lose a little bit of our history to make room for another Disney Store or Starbucks.

Today marks the end of another era. Today is the closing of The Russian Tea Room in New York City.

In case you don't know about the Russian Tea Room, or you were unlucky enough to have never been inside, here's a little history from their web site:

Opened as a conventional tea room in 1926 by former members of the Russian Imperial Ballet, it served as a meeting place for Russian émigrés who retreated to the U.S. following the Revolution. After Prohibition ended in 1932, the soda fountain was replaced with a bar that was stocked with more than 20 varieties of vodkas from around the world. In addition, food service was upgraded from tea and homemade pastries to include Russian dishes such as stuffed cabbage, caviar and blintzes. Just like the menu and bar, the reputation and legend of the Russian Tea Room began to blossom as well.

After World War II, a key group of investors became interested in reaping the benefits of the booming business. One of them was Sidney Kaye, a former high school chemistry teacher. In 1955, he bought his partners out and became the sole owner of the Russian Tea Room, and subsequently made it one of the most popular places in New York City for eating, meeting and greeting. He not only contributed his financial wizardry to the business, but also his flair for the dramatic. One of his many eclectic decor touches was a year 'round display of Christmas decorations. Kaye noted, "Christmas comes around again so soon, so why not? Besides, it looks so Russian." His reign at the Russian Tea Room lasted until his death in 1967, whereupon ownership of the restaurant went to his wife, actress Faith Stewart-Gordon, who lent some of her theatrical to it by expanding the second floor to create a caberet.

The Russian Tea Room has long enjoyed a unique place in New York life as a veritable stomping ground for New York’s cultural and literary communities – attracting a loyal clientele of musicians and maestros, ballerinas and chorus gypsies, Broadway stars and literary lions. RTR was renowned as Hollywood East – a non-stop, see and be seen destination for tourists and New York power brokers alike.

A few years ago, I took my sister to New York, and we celebrated her birthday at The Russian Tea Room. It was Christmas time and the place was even more sparkly and magical, if such a thing is possible.

I made a point of requesting the second floor, as I wanted to see the huge glass bear aquarium filled with live sturgeon. We sat beneath an enormous indoor tree decorated with handblown glass eggs as Russian music drifted from the live band in the balcony above the dining area. A waiter in full Russian costume spooned caviar onto blinis and we drank vodka. It was an incredibly happy evening.

The owners blame the economic conditions after 9/11 for the closure of this wonderful, magical place. So it seems those events have robbed us of yet another glorious New York landmark.

Do yourself a favor and visit their web site before that goes away as well. You can see photos of the spectacular interior, as well as a 360 degree virtual tour of every floor.